Golf Club Specifications: Discount Clone Golf Store 

Golf Club Technical Specifications and What They Mean

Golf Club Length Golf Club Shaft Flex Swing Speed Grip Size Face Angle Lie Loft Offset Bounce

Length - Length is simply how long the golf club is as measured from the butt end of the grip down the back side of the club down to where the club meets the ground. A longer golf club will hit further given the same swing speed - so length can be a good thing. However, since the swing arc is longer, it often is also harder to keep under control - so length can be a bad thing. All things being equal, most golfers will opt for longer length to the sacrifice of greater control.

The standard length of a steel shafted Driver for a man is 43 inches. Graphite shafted drivers are manufactured 1 inch longer than steel shafted clubs because graphite shafts weigh less than steel shafts allowing us to produce a longer club with the same swing weight (a fulcrum measurement of the proper balance and feel of a golf club).

The correct shaft length for a player is dependent in part on their height and arm length. A proper club fitting is the best way to determine proper club length, so you would be well served to see your local professional. In general, men's length shafts are 1" longer for woods and 1/2" longer for irons than ladies length shafts. If you are not sure what length clubs you need - you can use the simple method of measurement called "Wrist To Floor," as a guideline. (Remember, this is only a guideline - you need to be properly fitted.) Stand up perfectly straight with your golf shoes on, and have someone measure from the floor to the crease of your wrist. About 80% of golfers are in the "standard length" range of 34 to 36" - and here's a chart to help you:

• 27" to 32" Minus One Inch
• 32" to 34" Minus 1/2 Inch
• 34" to 36" Standard Length
• 36" to 38" Plus 1/2 Inch
• 38" to 40" Plus One Inch  

Shaft Flex - Flex is one of the most commonly misunderstood parts of the golf shaft. Nothing is more important in choosing your new set of clubs than the correct shaft flex. You can have the best club head and the sweetest swing, but if the shaft isn't the right flex for you (your tempo and swing speed), you won't hit a good shot, unless you know how to modify your swing to compensate for the different characteristics of the club you are using.

Most amateurs don't have that kind of skill and frankly don't need that skill. That being said, you could actually swing slower with a regular flex club and achieve the same distance you would with a stiff club swinging at a faster speed. This is because the regular shaft, if it unloads properly through the impact zone, actually adds clubhead speed at impact and therefore more distance. A stiff shaft minimizes this unloading effect, and, if you don't swing fast enough to need it, you could be cheating yourself out of a few yards. A fast hard swing is also usually harder for most amateurs to control, so examine your game and make an informed decision on shaft flex. The way to determine the flex you need is by your swing speed.

Swing speed - A player's swing speed is the speed at which he or she swings the club through the bottom of the swing arc. Swing speeds vary from player to player. A speed of 105 mph and above is considered fast; many tour professionals swing over 120 mph. The average recreational golfer's swing speed ranges between 80 and 90 mph. Equipment can influence swing speed; for example, most players will be able to swing a lighter shaft faster.

The following can be a guide to determine your clubhead speed: (have your clubhead speed measured if at all possible). Determine the appropriate shaft flex by considering your club of choice from 150 yards:

• 3, 4-iron or fairway wood (60-69 mph - ladies or seniors shaft);
• 4, 5-iron (70-79 mph - seniors shaft);
• 6, 7-iron (80-89 mph - senior or regular flex);
• 8, 9-iron (90-99 mph - regular or stiff flex);
• wedge (100+ mph - extra stiff flex).

Grip Size - Grip size or diameter can influence how you release the golf club through the impact area and will also affect the way you align the club face to the target. It is very important to get the correct size. Large or arthritic hands might require a jumbo grip.

Face Angle - Position of the club face relative to the intended line of ball flight. For right-handed golfers, a square face angle aligns directly at the target; an open face aligns to the right, while a closed face aligns left.

Lie - The angle from the shaft to the ground line when the club is measured in normal playing position.

Loft - The angle of the clubface that controls trajectory and affects distance.  During the mid to late 1990's, the average loft on the PGA Tour was around 7°. However, those were difficult shots for the pros to make and the ball flight from such a low loft created lots of spin. The experts in ball flight analysis showed that the longest golf drives are achieved with a high launch angle combined with low spin.  So the professionals are increasingly moving to larger headed higher lofted drivers. They get more carry with less shot error. Just like you should do! Most PGA pros now carry drivers with lofts of 8.5° to 10° or more. Non-pros should probably play drivers with lifts 10° or higher. So our recommendation is follow the advice of the PGA pros and increase the loft of your driver.

Offset - The distance between the leading edge of clubface and the front plane or the hosel. Offset is engineered into some models of irons to help players who tend to leave the clubface open at impact to square the clubface. Thus, offset helps eliminate a slice while also helping the player to draw the ball.

Bounce - The measurement in degrees of the angle from the front edge of a club's sole to the point that actually rests on the ground at address. The middle or rear of many soles is lower than the front edge. A club whose sole protrudes below the leading edge of the club is said to have positive bounce, while a club whose sole is level with the leading edge and parallel to the ground is said to have zero bounce. Bounce is most commonly applied to wedges. More bounce will keep the club from digging too deeply into turf or sand. The amount of bounce needed depends on conditions. If you play courses with soft, fluffy sand, you'll need more bounce. If the courses you play typically have harder sand, you'll need less bounce. Playing from fairway - less bounce. The type of swing can influence the amount of bounce needed, too. Players who swing their wedges steeply into impact need more bounce. Players who sweep through and undercut need less bounce.